201B or not 201B, that is the question

Happy New Year and I hope it will be a good one!

So lets start off with a little history lesson, and a little mystery.

What makes a Libelle 201 a 201B?  That has been a question posted on the Libelle forum a few times.

From what I can gather, and I might be wrong, I recall some first thought it was the introduction of the the retractable main wheel, but that was an option offered after the first 20 or so Libelle 201's  manufactured. Many say it's the install of the wing tanks and the replacement of the the old limitations placards with the new 201B limitations.

I know that the true, pure, 201B manufactured started at serial number 322. 

There are a list of changes to the H201 that made it a H201B

Such standard items on the H-201B after SN 322, were:

1. Correct Water ballast installation.
2. New horizontal stabilizer to improve the elevator authority at slow speeds.
3. Reinforced tail boom.
4. New tail plane attachment fitting.
5. Larger diameter tubing for rudder pedals for the steel cables.
.... you get the picture.


But all of these changes to the aircraft needed to be done per the specification of Glasflügel or Streifeneder.

I found that with the installation of the water ballast system, per Glasflügel, made it a H-201B.

And as we know from my previous posts, not everything on my bird was upgraded per the manufacturers specification.

Currently, my glider is registered as a 201B, and I from what I found, many of the listed items were not done. The only sure thing that made my bird a H201B was the water ballast system, and it was not done per anyone's specification. It looked like a homemade modification.

I will need to make sure that the 201B modifications will be completed per the manufacturers guidelines, but the problem I have found is, where can I find the proper parts?.

I removed the questionably installed water ballast parts when I started the initial strip down of the glider (May of 2010).  I had no intention of re-using these, since they appeared to be made from an old tarp.





At that time I found an old web page from Eastern Sailplane, where they were selling replacement ballast tanks. The next day, I contacted Eastern Sailplane to see if they had replacement tanks for the Libelle.,







In June of 2010, I was traveling to the airport to train my replacement after getting laid off, when I received a call from John Murray of Eastern Sailplane. He called to tell me that he had found a replacement ballast bag set for the Libelle.

Now I had water bags, but I need the rest of the parts to satisfy the requirements of a properly installed water ballast system!


So the quest for the parts continues.

Early 2011, I emailed Streifeneder to find out what I needed to do the proper water ballast installation.

After waiting a few months, I received a response with a 3 page list of parts and a list of blueprint drawings needed to install the system. I ordered the set drawings first to see if I could find any of the parts here in the US. When I received the drawings, I found that there were many custom Libelle parts. The prospects of re-installing the water ballast system was looking grim.

So, the question now, Tanks or no Tanks?

Again, I emailed Streifeneder and asked them if the water ballast system parts were still available, a mod-kit would be great too! Several months went by, and I received a reply. Hansjorg wrote me a replay stating that he would have to look around to see if any parts were still available.

November of 2011, I receive another reply stating that the Teleflex cable used for the valve control was no longer available in a 3' length and he was still working on finding parts.

Using the information from the drawings, I went to a local marine shop and showed them the drawings. They identified the Teleflex cable used for controlling the throttle on motor boats, but again, that length was not available, nor can it be made to order.

The following weekend, I went to the airport to do some soaring. After our flight, I walking into the FBO and noticed a throttle cable on the counter. It looked just like the Teleflex cable at the marine shop, but it did not have the full cable covering. The cable had a stainless steel mesh cover.

I was able to order the throttle cable from Aircraft Spruce.

The year is 2012!

May, I received an email from Streifeneder telling me that they might have a set of parts to rebuild the water ballast system. The parts were coming from a unrepairable Libelle.

June, Streifeneder emails me a list of the parts they were able to recover, and a few that they will need to remake. I authorized the purchase of the parts.

The first week of September, a miracle happened. I received an email from Streifeneder with a bill for the parts, and within ten days, a box of parts arrived.  To my surprise this included the old, original tanks!





Since the wheel well was painted, There will need to be some cleanup to glue the fiberglass water dump parts in place.

I believe I now have the parts to do a proper water ballast install.

The next question will be, which tanks do I use, and what modifications will be needed for the interior of the wing cells to support the water bags.  Roberts knowledge of glider ballast systems will be called in to solve this question.

So, on to the task at hand, finishing the glider!

Assault and Battery! Part 2

Here is a post I thought I published . The box construction was completed last spring, as with the mounting of the turnbuckle parts.

So, here is the narrative.

After working on a way to secure the batteries, I came up with an alternative means to mount the battery cover.

 

I found a turnbuckle that would work to secure a modified battery cover plate.

To prep the box for the turnbuckles, I cut two holes in the battery box flange.

I cut the threaded portions of the turnbuckles an cemented them in place with a mix of resin and flocking. This fix was similar to the original fixtures on the original box. 

This part was completed prior to packing the glider up to take to the airport.

The battery compartment needed a cover to secure the batteries in place. I used a piece of thick fiberglass that was removed from the trailer. I found a couple of wing-knobs at a local hardware store and mounted the threaded screws in them. I attached a couple of washers for strength, and added a piece of felt padding.

Here is a photo on how it is attached to the battery box.

I finished the wiring and soldered the connectors

The terminated wires were then snapped into the marked ends.

Although these two photos shows how I did the battery connectors, I have since changed them due to the possibility of getting the wires crossed. I have since used polarized connectors.

 

With the batteries in place, I connected an aircraft radio antenna to the radio and powered the panel up. I did not connect the power to the transponder.

I did a radio check and received a positive reply, from my wife on my portable radio, from the other side of the house.

I then tuned in Albuquerque Approach and listened to the incoming traffic.

I can't wait to get this bird up in the air!

Well, That is it for the end of the year 2012 !

Happy Holidays to all!

Trailer Update

With winter closing in, I was able to finish the trailer enough to load the glider and take it to Roberts shop at the airport.  I encountered some fit issues, but the glider traveled well.

I will continue to update the trailer saga this spring, when things warm up.

It is now time to see when Robert and his right hand man, Joseph,can start work.

The Trailer! Part 8 - Struts and stuff!

I know I'm missing a few post that I wanted to get in before releasing this update, but after two and half years on this project, I have reached a milestone, the plane can now go to the shop at the airport to be finished.

Over the past couple of weeks, I was able to get the top of the trailer finished enough for us to get the top weighed.



Last month, the SSA issue of Soaring had a post about the need to replace some Cobra trailer struts. They mentioned a company in Surrey, BC Canada, called Strut Wise. The owner Frank Irvine was very helpful, and they were able to provide working struts for my beast trailer top.

The top is over weight due to the steel frame, but I was assured that the struts will handle to load. They require a little OMF to get them started, but they move with ease upward. Closing the top requires care to get the frame to line up on the top of the bottom rim.

But all in all, it works well.

I added the tail wheel cup and a tail strap from Cobra

Some how, my instruction where not followed to keep the height of the nose stop the same.

I believe the welder at the trailer shop shortened the frame. 

Until it was put in the trailer did I find the mistake, and now it's too late.

I have over payed for all the welding work that was done on it already for me to take this back and have them redo their work, and get double charged.

The glider required a little jocking around inside to get things to fit, which was a challenge without the help of the dolly tracks. I will need to make some adjustments in the spring, when I finish the trailer top, but for now, let's just get the glider finished!

Oh my god!, I have a garage again!

I will continue to play "catch up" on the post and to fill in some gaps

The project is getting that much closer to being finished. As they say.. I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel" ... Oh God, I hope it's not a train!

The Trailer! Part 7 - The trailer front half!

This past week, I took off work to finish the front half of the trailer top.

The top was was glassed in with the same number of layers as the back half, with the exception on an additional layer of 18oz. roving.

The extra layer will stiffen the the roof, and prevent sagging.

The mold was removed, to my surprise, came off quite easily.

With the help from my wife, we rolled the top over. 

The next step was to create the access hatch cover. I needed to make this before moving the top outside.

To protect the front of the trailer top, and to prevent the hatch cover bonding to the top glass, the hatch mold was made of .25 inch plywood, cut to shape and treated. I then screwed it onto the trailer top front. a layer of aluminum tape was applied, and then I used mold release wax to treat the surface. 

The hatch cover was made with several layers glass, like the rest of the trailer top, with the exception of the additional two layers of carbon fiber to keep it extra stiff.

The hatch cover popped off the mold, and the extra material was trimmed..

I left a lip on the edge so I can make the inside lip for the hatch to fit over when its mounted to the trailer. That topic will be addressed later. 

With the hatch cover made, It was tip to mate the two trailer top halves together. I used my truck, and the lift gate to move the top to the waiting trailer.

And again, with the help from my wife, we slide the top onto to the front of the trailer.

It took me most of the following day to get the front aligned with the back half.  I then cut out a rough opening so I can access the inside of the trailer to apply the bonding fiberglass to the seam split.

I followed Uraula Hanles instruction on how to bond a broken fuselage guide me thru this stem. I added additional ribbing to reinforce the inside.

While the first layers of the seam were curing, I cut out the openings for the rear tail lights and mounted the lights in place. I added the the license plate holder and light.  These will come off when I'm ready to paint the top, but for now, I just need them to be working so I can get the essential internal parts mounted, and the glider delivered to the airport for completion!

I placed the unfinished hatch cover over the opening.

For almost two years, this trailer for the first time, does not need a tarp to protect it! YAHOO! 

 I will do cleanup and add a layer of paint to protect the glass, but the final external finishing will be done later, after the glider is in the hands of the shop!

The Trailer! Part 6 - Déjà vu!?

Finally the temperature is getting down enough where I can start working with fiberglass again!.

I pulled out the wood and start reviewing my drawings.

The new trailer steel hoops in the forward area on the trailer are a little off from my original design. So, I will stick to the original design and cut the hoops off to be re-welded after the front on the trailer is mounted and secured.

The design for the mold required more facets than I wanted to deal with, but that is burden I chose when I accepted this project.

I reused much of the wood from the back portion of the trailer mold to create the mold for the forward trailer mold.

I created panel frames to create the forward curve.

This is where my wife walked in and saw this!

Her comment was, "Are you preparing to storm the beach in Normandy!?"

Aluminum foil tape was used to seal the edges and seams.

The last step was to add the facet edge with cut paneling strips.

I used a hot glue gun to tack the strips in place,

.... and then masking tape to seal the seams.

The wood was sanded and sealed.


Tomorrow.... the whole interior gets a good waxing.











Next week I start the process of applying the fiberglass... Oh Joy..

The new O2 System and Radio Mic install

Over the summer, when it was still too warm to work on the trailer top, I managed to finish the plumbing for the oxygen system.

I purchased a Mountain High System last spring and after careful studying on other gliders O2 systems, I planned out one that I believe will work just fine in the Libelle.

I found that the first stage needed to face down with my planned arrangement.

I mounted the refill port and tank gauge where it was accessible though the hat-self cover.

I originally bought the standard 3' high pressure hose, but I found that it was too short for where I needed to read the gauge in the cockpit. So I had to reorder a 5' hose. There were already small holes drilled in the ribs, I reused them to strap the hose in place, and ran it thought the glass straps in the side and under the seat pan tray lip.

Don't worry about that dangling chain on the refill port cover. I will get a better one that will secure the cap.

I drilled a opening in the lip and mounted the cockpit gauge. I also cut a notch in the seat pan lip to slide under the gauge.

While I was working on that side, I attached the boom microphone mount and ran the cable down the side. The cockpit padding will cover the cable when the plane is finished.

The next step was how to run the low pressure hose and still keep it away from anything that will hang up the controls or pinch the hose.

I ran the hose along the rear wing pin suspension tube and carefully strapped it down with plastic ties. There were holes in the ribs were I ran the tube in, through and around to avoid the aileron yoke and elevator rod.

The hose the was run through the glass straps into and under the right side seat pan tray lip.

Mountain High had a panel mount hose port that fit perfectly in the tray lip. I cut an opening in the seat pan for the port access. I will use the plastic hose to attach the demand regulator, and fit it into the side padding pocket.

It's now the end of September, the temperature is falling. It's time to finish the damn trailer!

UPDATE

Here is a revision to the low pressure hose install. A blog reader, Mark , suggested an excellent idea to prevent the hose from getting pinched by the plastic tires. He suggested that I shield the hose with a ridged plastic tube. I found that the tube I'm using for the steel wire shield had in ID the was just a shade wider than the OD of the low pressure hose. It was a perfect fit. And was rigid enough to prevent the plastic ties from biting into the low pressure line.


Again, Thank you Mark!